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Whenever curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end names. But, situated high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.